What temperature tropical fish aquarium?

Temperature Control | Aquarium Basics

  • A good range is 76° to 80°F (25° to 27°C). A few species need to be kept several degrees warmer, and some species require temperatures a few degrees cooler.
  • A thermometer is vital. A stick-on type enables you to check the temperature whenever you look at the aquarium.
  • For tropical fishes a reliable heater is necessary, at least during the colder months of the year. Many aquarists in temperate climates face the opposite problem during the dog days of summer—keeping the aquarium from overheating.

Aquarium Heaters

  • Both submersible and hang-on heaters are available. All are thermostatically controlled, and many can be set for specific temperatures. Hang-on models are less expensive, since submersibles must obviously be water-tight. Most common are heaters in glass tubes, but titanium and stainless steel heaters are gaining in popularity due to their unbreakable design.
  • Some heaters have simple warmer-colder adjustments, and you must adjust them until your aquarium is stable at the desired temperature. Others have an adjustment designated in degrees to set a precise temperature without trial-and-error adjustments, and still others have one or more preset temperatures you can choose.
  • For normal room temperatures, figure on 100 watts for a 20-gallon, 175 watts for a 55-gallon, and 300 watts for a 100-gallon. If the room gets quite cold, use higher wattages. The water temperature should be stable.
  • Notice that the smaller the tank, the more watts per gallon are needed. For small tanks, 5 watts per gallon are recommended, while larger tanks can get by with 3 watts per gallon. Extremely large tanks may need even less than that. This is because small bodies of water lose heat much more quickly than large ones. Think of how much more quickly a cup of coffee will cool off than a hot bath. A 55-gallon tank will lose heat about half as fast as a 10-gallon tank.
  • You can use two heaters that total the needed capacity. If one sticks in the on position, the water will not overheat as quickly, and you have a better chance of saving your fish. If one heater dies, the other will be able to partially maintain the temperature, again giving you more time to discover the problem.
  • If your setup has a sump, that is a great place to put the heater, and if you have a plumbing circuit you can use an in-line heating module.

They don't in nature either, ceteribus paribus

by keloyd

"Aquarium Fish" is a term that casts a broad net. Assuming we mean the typical, small, freshwater varieties most often sold, many have a diet in nature of tiny *living* things. They, like us, have a heirarchy of what they prefer.
Gambusia are sold specifically for mosquito larvae control.
Guppies eat anything they can find, but probably greatly prefer fresh algae and small animals.
Goldfish will eat dead goldfish, but not if they have more appetizing fare, and not quickly.
the caricachins(sp?), aka tetras, contribute te most small, colorful tropical fish to the industry

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